U.S. Dime Series Guide & Values
Draped Bust to Roosevelt • 230 Years of America's Smallest Silver Coin
Value Overview by Series
Values shown are broad approximate ranges for common-date circulated examples within each series, updated for silver near $65 per ounce in late September 2026. Key dates, mint-state coins, and certified examples sell for far more. See each series' dedicated guide for complete date-by-date values.
| Series | Years | Composition | Common Date Range | Guide | Shop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Draped Bust | 1796–1807 | .8924 Silver | $800–$15,000+ | View Guide → | Shop eBay → |
| Capped Bust | 1809–1837 | .8924 Silver | $60–$2,000+ | View Guide → | Shop eBay → |
| Seated Liberty | 1837–1891 | 90% Silver | $20–$150+ | View Guide → | Shop eBay → |
| Barber | 1892–1916 | 90% Silver | $8–$30+ | View Guide → | Shop eBay → |
| Mercury | 1916–1945 | 90% Silver | $5–$20+ | View Guide → | Shop eBay → |
| Roosevelt (silver era) | 1946–1964 | 90% Silver | $5–$8+ | View Guide → | Shop eBay → |
| Roosevelt (clad era) | 1965–present | Copper-Nickel Clad | Face value | View Guide → | Shop eBay → |
Every U.S. Dime Series
The dime denomination spans six major design eras across its history, with the Draped Bust and Capped Bust types so similar in composition and collecting characteristics that they're usually studied together as "Early Dimes." Mint errors, from off-center strikes to doubled dies, form a collecting category of their own across every series. Click any card below for a dedicated guide with date-by-date values, key dates, and grading information.
Early Dimes
Seated Liberty Dimes
Barber Dimes
Mercury Dimes
Roosevelt Dimes
Dime Error Coins
![[Lot of 50] Mercury Dime Mixed Full Roll - LOW GRADE - 90% Silver](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/PtkAAeSweINqzaZ3/s-l225.jpg)
![[Lot of 50] Mercury Dime Mixed Full Roll - LOW GRADE - 90% Silver](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/TE8AAeSwH~VqzabU/s-l225.jpg)
Collecting the Dime Denomination
The dime's long and eventful design history makes it a rewarding denomination for type collectors, tracing American coin artistry from the earliest days of the Republic through the present. Because common-date examples of the later series (Barber, Mercury, Roosevelt) are widely available and affordable, a meaningful type set is achievable for most collectors without pursuing the denomination's rarest key dates. The earliest types are another matter: a 1796 Draped Bust dime commands a serious premium even in heavily worn condition, thanks to its scarcity and its place among the first coins struck by the U.S. Mint.
For collectors focused on silver content, pre-1965 dimes (traded as "junk silver" in the bullion market when worn and non-collectible) are one of the most accessible ways to acquire silver, since common dates from the 1940s through early 1960s sell at modest premiums over melt. PCGS and NGC grade dimes across every series, and certification matters more as value rises, particularly for the earliest types and well-known key dates such as the 1916-D and 1921 Mercury dimes and the 1894-S Barber dime, where authentication and condition carry enormous weight in final value. Have a specific dime in hand? Start with What's My Coin Worth, or compare certified values across every denomination in the FRC Coin Price Guide.
Silver Content Across the Series
The dime's metal composition has changed twice in ways that matter for evaluating a coin's melt value. From 1796 through 1837, dimes were struck in .8924 fine silver, a slightly lower purity standard than later coinage. Beginning in 1837, the Mint moved to the .900 fine standard that continued through 1964, giving these coins approximately 0.0723 troy ounces of pure silver each. With silver trading near $65 per ounce in late September 2026, that works out to roughly $4.70 in melt value per 90% silver dime. In 1965, the Coinage Act eliminated silver from the dime entirely, replacing it with a copper-nickel clad composition (75% copper / 25% nickel outer layers bonded to a pure copper core) that remains standard for circulating dimes today.
Date recognition alone tells you most of what you need to know about a dime's baseline bullion value: any dime dated 1964 or earlier is silver, while any dime dated 1965 or later is silver-free clad worth face value unless it carries a numismatic premium. Special silver proof versions of modern Roosevelt dimes have been struck for collectors since 1992, but these are sold in proof sets rather than released into circulation. Because silver prices move daily, check a live spot price before buying or selling pre-1965 dimes by the roll or bag. For current melt values and the bullion side of pre-1965 coinage, see our Silver Bullion Guide.
The History of the U.S. Dime
The dime traces its origin to the Coinage Act of 1792, which established the "disme" (an archaic French-derived term for one-tenth) as one of the original denominations of U.S. federal coinage. A small number of 1792 disme patterns were struck, but they never entered circulation, and their precise legal status remains debated by numismatists. The first dimes actually struck for circulation weren't produced until 1796, using the modern spelling, with a modest mintage of just 22,135 Draped Bust Small Eagle pieces.
Dime production in its first four decades was sporadic rather than continuous. The early Mint operated on a deposit-driven system, striking coins largely when depositors brought in silver bullion, so no dimes are dated 1799, 1806, or 1808 during the Draped Bust era. The Capped Bust design that followed in 1809 had its own gaps, with no dimes dated 1810, 1812, 1813, 1815 through 1819, or 1826. Production finally settled into a steady annual rhythm with the Seated Liberty series beginning in 1837, though even the 20th century saw a few skipped years: no Mercury dimes were struck in 1922, 1932, or 1933, when economic conditions left the country with more dimes than it needed.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the oldest dime series?
The Draped Bust dime, first struck for circulation in 1796, is the earliest series and among the very first coins produced by the newly established United States Mint. A small number of 1792 "disme" patterns exist, but they were never released into circulation and their status as genuine coinage is debated. The Draped Bust design ran through 1807, with no dimes dated 1799 or 1806, before the Capped Bust design took over in 1809 following one more gap year in 1808.
How can I tell if my dime is silver?
The date tells you almost everything. Any dime dated 1964 or earlier is silver: .8924 fine before 1837, and .900 fine (90% silver) from 1837 through 1964. Any dime dated 1965 or later is copper-nickel clad and contains no silver, unless it's a silver proof collector issue sold in proof sets since 1992. A quick edge check helps too: clad dimes show a copper stripe along the edge, while silver dimes are solid silver-gray all the way through.
How much is a silver dime worth?
A common-date 90% silver dime contains about 0.0723 troy ounces of pure silver, so its melt value moves with the silver price. With silver near $65 per ounce in late September 2026, that's roughly $4.70 per coin, and dealers typically sell common worn dates a little above melt. Scarcer dates, better grades, and certified coins carry numismatic premiums that can far exceed silver value.
What is the most valuable dime series?
Early Dimes (Draped Bust and Capped Bust, 1796–1837) generally command the highest values as a series, given their age, historical significance, and scarcity compared to later dimes. Within any series, though, specific key dates can be dramatically more valuable than the typical range. The 1916-D Mercury dime and the 1894-S Barber dime are both famous rarities, with the 1894-S known in fewer than a dozen confirmed examples.
Why weren't dimes struck every year?
The early U.S. Mint operated on a deposit-driven system rather than a fixed annual schedule, striking coins largely in response to silver bullion deposited by individuals and institutions. When too little silver was deposited for dimes, or Mint capacity went to more urgently needed denominations, no dimes were struck that year, which explains the gaps in 1799, 1806, 1808, 1810, 1812–1813, 1815–1819, and 1826. Production became steady with the Seated Liberty series in 1837, though no Mercury dimes were struck in 1922, 1932, or 1933, when demand for new dimes was low.
Are old dimes a good investment?
Pre-1965 dimes carry genuine silver bullion value that provides a price floor independent of numismatic factors, while scarcer dates and better-preserved examples carry additional collector premiums. Whether they're a good investment depends on both silver price performance and numismatic market trends, which no one can predict, so consider consulting a qualified financial advisor before making significant purchases. Many collectors pursue dimes primarily for their history and artistry rather than as a pure investment.
What is a good starting point for collecting dimes?
Building a type set, one example of each major design across the denomination's history, is one of the most popular and achievable dime collecting goals, since common-date examples of the Barber, Mercury, and Roosevelt series are widely available and affordable. From there, many collectors specialize in a single series, such as Mercury or Barber dimes, to pursue its complete date-and-mintmark run and key dates in greater depth.
From the earliest 1792 Half Disme to the modern Roosevelt and Semiquincentennial issues, this book explores the evolution of the dime in remarkable detail.
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