mercury dime error off center

Dime Error Coins

The 1982 no mint mark Roosevelt, missing clad layers, Mercury dime doubled dies, and the full spectrum of valuable dime errors — values, identification, and where to find them.

Collector's Value Guide

Dimes are the smallest U.S. coin in circulation, but the errors they produce can be among the most dramatic in American numismatics. From the famous 1982 no mint mark Roosevelt — a coin so significant it caused a national coin hunt — to missing clad layers that expose the pure copper core, dime errors offer collectors an accessible entry point and real upside potential. A discerning eye and a basic loupe are all you need to start hunting.

Track the full value of your collection. Our Coin Values Guide covers Roosevelt and Mercury dimes by date, mint mark, and grade — essential reference alongside any error hunting effort.

Most Valuable Dime Error Types

Dimes are clad coins (since 1965) and solid silver before that, which creates two distinct error categories: clad-layer errors unique to post-1964 issues, and the full range of die and mechanical errors spanning both eras.

Error TypeSeries AffectedTypical Value Range
No Mint Mark (1982-P)Roosevelt Dime$75 – $300+
Missing Clad Layer (full)Post-1965 Roosevelt$50 – $400+
Wrong Planchet StrikeAll series$100 – $2,000+
Doubled Die ObverseMercury & Roosevelt$25 – $3,000+
Off-Center Strike (50%+)All series$30 – $300+
1916-D Mercury Dime (key date)Mercury Dime$800 – $50,000+
Clipped PlanchetAll series$10 – $100+
Die Cap ErrorAll series$200 – $1,500+

Featured Dime Errors

1982 no mint mark Roosevelt dime error coin

1982 No Mint Mark Roosevelt Dime

$75 – $300+

In 1982, the Philadelphia Mint accidentally shipped dies to the presses without adding the required P mint mark — the only time this happened after P marks became standard in 1980. Hundreds of thousands entered circulation before the error was caught.

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Roosevelt dime missing clad layer error showing copper core

Missing Clad Layer Roosevelt Dime

$50 – $400+

When the copper-nickel outer layer was omitted during planchet manufacturing, the result is a dime with a distinctly different color on one or both sides — exposing the pure copper core underneath the normal silver-colored surface.

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Mercury dime doubled die error coin

Mercury Dime Doubled Die Varieties

$100 – $3,000+

Several Mercury Dime dates exhibit strong doubling — most notably on the date, LIBERTY, and the fasces on the reverse. The 1942/41 overdate is the series' most famous variety, where the underlying 41 is visible beneath the 42.

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Dime struck on wrong planchet error coin

Dime on Wrong Planchet

$100 – $2,000+

When dime dies strike cent or cent dies strike dime planchets, the result is dramatically off-size. A dime die striking a cent planchet produces a copper-colored "dime" — immediately recognizable and highly collectible as a major error type.

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Dime Error Coin Explorer

Browse errors by series — click any card for full details and current eBay listings.


The 1982 No Mint Mark Roosevelt Dime

The 1982 no mint mark Roosevelt dime is the most famous modern dime error and one of the most widely collected error coins of the 20th century. The story begins with a procedural lapse at the Philadelphia Mint: after Congress mandated the P mint mark on all Philadelphia coinage in 1980 (except cents), the mark was punched into working dies as part of the normal preparation process. In 1982, at least one set of dies for the dime was shipped to the production floor without the P mark — an oversight that wasn't caught until the affected coins had already entered circulation.

The exact number of no-P dimes produced is unknown, but estimates range from several hundred thousand to over a million. This means they're genuinely findable — not extreme rarities — which is part of their appeal. Coin roll searching through dimes from the 1982 era still occasionally turns one up. In circulated condition, these typically trade for $75–$100. Choice uncirculated examples (MS-65 and above) bring $200–$300, and fully struck gems can exceed those figures at auction.

How to identify the 1982 no-P dime: Examine the obverse just above and to the right of Roosevelt's shoulder, between the rim and the bust. On normal post-1980 Philadelphia dimes, a small P is visible there. On the 1982 no-P error, that space is blank. Circulated examples can have the area worn smooth — submit gems to PCGS or NGC for definitive attribution.

Shop certified 1982 no mint mark Roosevelt dimes and other major dime errors.

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How to Find Dime Errors in Circulation

Dimes are excellent roll-searching targets because of their small size and high mintage volumes — meaning errors are produced in quantity, even if the percentage remains small. Start by requesting 1982 dime rolls from your bank and searching for the no-P variety. Examine each coin under a 5x loupe and check the area above Roosevelt's shoulder for the mint mark. This alone can make a search worthwhile.

For missing clad layer dimes, look for coins with an obviously copper or bi-colored appearance. A partial missing clad layer will show a section of copper-colored metal on an otherwise normal-appearing coin. Full missing clad layer examples are rarer and dramatically more striking — one side will be entirely copper-toned.

When hunting for doubled dies, focus on the date and LIBERTY on the obverse. Even minor doubling can add significant value on key dates. A basic 10x loupe and a good printed variety reference are your best tools for this type of search.


Frequently Asked Questions

How do I find the 1982 no mint mark dime?
Check the obverse above Roosevelt's shoulder near the rim. All Philadelphia dimes from 1980 onward should have a P mint mark there. If the space is blank on a 1982 dime, you have the error. Worn examples can lose fine detail — submit questionable pieces to PCGS or NGC if the area is worn smooth. Roll searching 1982 dimes remains a practical hunting strategy.
What is a missing clad layer dime worth?
Values depend on which layer is missing and how much is absent. A full single missing clad layer (one face entirely copper-toned) is worth $50–$400 depending on grade and which side is affected. Partial missing clad layer examples are less valuable — typically $20–$75. Coins with both clad layers missing (pure copper cores) are rare and worth substantially more when genuine.
Is the 1942/41 Mercury Dime overdate an error or a variety?
Technically it's a variety — a hub dating error where the wrong year hub was used to impress a working die. The distinction matters to specialists but not to values. The 1942/41-P is a $500–$5,000 coin in most grades; the scarcer Denver version (1942/41-D) commands $800–$8,000+. Authentication by PCGS or NGC is essential for both.
Can I still find 1982 no-P dimes in circulation?
Yes — they occasionally appear in roll searches. Hundreds of thousands were produced and many circulated for years. The odds in any given roll are low, but dedicated roll searchers occasionally still find examples. The most practical approach is searching bank rolls from the early 1980s if you can find them, or purchasing pre-sorted rolls from dealers.
What's the difference between a doubled die and machine doubling?
A genuine doubled die shows distinctly separated, shelf-like doubling with full detail on both images — created when a hub impresses a die twice at slightly different positions. Machine doubling (also called MD or shelf doubling) produces a flat, smeared secondary image with no depth — created by die bounce during striking. Machine doubling has no collector premium; genuine doubled dies can add hundreds or thousands to a coin's value.
What reference books cover dime errors and varieties?
The Cherrypicker's Guide to Rare Die Varieties covers Roosevelt and Mercury dimes in depth. For Mercury Dimes specifically, the Tomaska reference is the specialist standard. The Flynn reference covers Mercury Dime varieties in even greater detail. For general error coins across all denominations, Alan Herbert's The Official Price Guide to Mint Errors is an excellent starting reference.

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